Marrakech

Hello! Oh my goodness it’s been so long since I’ve written a post. Since the New Year my life has been pretty hectic. The bakery is thriving but it takes a lot of energy to keep on top of it. That in itself is enough to keep me too busy to blog but then with general life maintenance (friendships, family, home, relationship) there’s not much time left for anything other than some winding down. I’ve had to make a decision to find the time to write because I love sharing with you so here I am at precisely 7:26am on a Sunday morning doing just that.

So, Marrakech. How do I even begin to put across just how wonderful it is? We got back a couple of weeks ago after spending a week there. Neither of us have been before and at the time of booking we had decided we wanted a culture shock. I love Europe, the beautiful architecture, the history, the food, but you kind of know what you’re getting and we were ready for a slap in the face kind of holiday and that is exactly what we got!

Where we stayed

As usual we decided to book our accommodation with Air bnb. When we went to Rome we made the mistake of staying in a hotel which is fine for a couple of days but after a week of walking we really wished we had stayed in an apartment where we could properly relax. Also the food markets were so amazing we really wanted to cook. Being Bakers/Chefs and not being able to cook the amazing produce was torture so we learned a lesson and since then have only stayed in apartments.

Having never being to Marrakech but having done our research we decided to stay in the new town. Reading up on the Medina it sounded chaotic and I really wanted to be able to escape if I wanted. I’m glad we made that decision however if we decide to visit Marrakech again I would definitely stay in a Riad now I have a better understanding of the place. Just for the experience really as they look stunning!

Gueliz

We stayed in Gueliz which was perfect. It wasn’t too crowded and was around a 30 minute, direct walk to the Souks. You could also hop on a bus for around 5dh which was about 40p. As for the neighbourhood it had pretty much everything you could ask for right on your doorstep. Boutiques, bakeries, bars, cafes, convenience stores, fast food outlets, a supermarket, chemists as well as high street stores like Zara and H&M. Believe it or not I didn’t go in either! The Ville Nouvelle (new town) is also home to designer shops and some of the best museums and restaurants in the city (which we’ll get onto later).

Because it’s a little more modern than the Medina (old town) you don’t have to worry as much about having your shoulders and legs covered as there’s a bit more of a modern outlook. However I pretty much stuck to it as I didn’t want to draw any unwanted attention to myself, especially as I ended up spending quite a bit of time on my own towards the back end of the week as Joe was unwell. Let me say this, I felt completely safe on my own in the new town but I’m not sure I would have gone as far as the souks on my own. That’s just my personal opinion. Maybe next time I would feel a little more confident having explored the place once before.

What we did

The souks

One of the first things we did was head to the souks (Moroccan for market) to see what all of the fuss was about. Sprawling out from the main square of the Medina are lots of little alleys known as the souks. They are incredible. As soon as you arrive you are hit with new sights, sounds and smells all at once but just go with it and let yourself get absorbed into your new surroundings.

Each little alley takes you by stall after stall of coloured textiles, silver and gold ornaments, bright leather babouche slippers, scarves, trinkets, jewellery, mirrors, spices…just an endless display of treats. All around you is the sound of horns beeping as people on mopeds wobble past you sometimes with their entire family on one! (We even saw a guy with a dog!)

Interspersed in this are guys with carts selling freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, or tables set up with the most wonderful tasting nougat and peanut brittle. You’ll wonder passed butchers and fruit stalls and a million wild cats. The dust will blow up and the stall holders will pour water on it to keep it at bay. Every person you pass will ask you for something. A smile, some money, a purchase, a look. “Nice to see you to see you nice!” said one gap toothed, leathery faced man.

You might have heard some horror stories about getting ripped off but keep your wits about you, keep your purse and phone safe and politely decline with a “no thank you” or a “la choukran” and you’ll be fine. Enjoy the experience, that’s what you’re there for aren’t you?

Jemaa el fna

This is the main square after Katoubia mosque and before the souks and it’s quite an experience. We came here a couple of times, once during the day and once after dark and I really recommend both.

It’s a wide open square that, as the sun starts to set, fills with more and more people. Women offering Henna, men huddled in groups playing instruments, snake charmers, monkeys on chains, men selling watches, women selling packs of tissues, men sending neon toys catapulting through the air, stall after stall of grilled food and fresh fruit juices and the many wide eyed tourists, curious to see this crazy, outdoor circus.

At one point we saw a huge group of people all cheering and walking over to explore we managed to look over their shoulders to see two small boys wearing boxing gloves having a match! I walked away as it was a little brutal for me but Joe told me they were really going for it! It’s like being on a film set. All around you the most bizarre scenes you can imagine and all the time people are whizzing past you on mopeds. Insane!

The Gardens of Marrakech

• Majorelle Gardens – An absolute must visit full of stunning cacti and beautiful blue hues. Brought back to life by YSL (who’s museum just down the road is also a must visit). Wander around the gardens, stop and sit at one of the benches and take it all in. The garden is also home to The Berber museum which is worth visiting while you’re there.
• The Cyber Gardens – There’s nothing cyber about these gardens apart from the fact you can pick up free WiFi there. Full of pathways, pretty green tiles and wild cats galore! It’s definitely worth taking the time to come here, especially to get a break from the hustle and bustle of the Medina.
• Le Jardin Secret – Hidden within the souks inside a historic Riad. One minute you’re making your way down tiny, dusty alleys trying not to get ran over and the next you’re in a tranquil, herb filled, garden paradise with tiny turtles and bird song. We sat and had some mint tea and a bite to eat on the cafe terrace while we planned our next move. Definitely worth a stop while you’re visiting the souks.

Where and what we ate

I have to be honest when I say we were a little disappointed with the food on offer. Not in the restaurants but out on the street. We were really hoping to try some amazing street food but unfortunately the only places we found were in Jemaa el fna and none of it seemed, how can I say this? Hygienic? Yes let’s go with that. The places we did eat were great!

Azar

We ate here on our first full night and it was amazing! Such a great introduction to our week of eating in Marrakech. We booked it last minute and were surprised to get a table as it seemed like a popular place. It was actually on the street where we were staying and once inside it looked pretty fancy!

We were taken to our seats and brought water and a little dish of crudités while we peruses the menu. We settled on a special menu for 2 people that allowed us to sample a bit of everything. We had 9 small plates of the chefs choice that included the best Baba Ghanoush I’ve ever had in my life. It also included hummus, a spectacular herb salad, and some little Middle Eastern sausages.

Our main course was a mixed grill which was really great but nothing to write home about and then the dessert! It was so delicious. A little Lebanese duo that consisted of Mouhalabieh (Lebanese pudding served with syrup with pistachios) and Mafroukeh Bil Ashta (semolina cake / “ashta”milk cream/ caramelized pistachios and cashews / confit orange zest / dattes and sherry vinegar syrup). Throughout the meal our wine glasses never went empty and we were entertained by belly dancers and male entertainers. Sounds dreadful but it was actually really good fun and added to the evening. It came to around £80 for us both including all of the food and a bottle of wine and water.

Amal

Amal is a not for profit women’s training centre in Gueliz that I was particularly looking forward to trying. From the street it doesn’t look like much but once through the gate you enter a beautiful little terrace full of orange trees. You can see the women working and it’s ran to a highly professional level with a daily rotating menu.

“Amal’s goal is personal transformation through job and life skills development for our trainees, a stepping stone to economic and social stability”

I ate there twice, the first time with Joe and the second time on my own. Bread and dips were brought to the table on both occasions and the first time we both had a simple vegetable tagine which was perfectly cooked, fresh and light. I felt like I’d eaten some real goodness afterwards. I also got a strawberry juice and Joe had a lemon and mint drink that was delicious.

The second time I ate there was on my birthday. Joe was ill so I decided to go alone. Google maps said it was 7 minutes away. Because I can’t read a map I continuously walked in the wrong direction and walked in circles over and over. It took almost an hour before I realised I was going the wrong way. Once I worked it out it did indeed take 7 minutes. This time I had the sea bass fillets which had been dipped in flour first before frying and were served with a salad and a cumin spiced mash potato. I drank the fresh lemon and mint drink followed by a pot of traditional mint tea. The atmosphere is relaxed and peaceful and I throughly enjoyed both visits plus its unbelievably cheap. Less than £10 both times.

Le 68 bar à vin

We stumbled upon this atmospheric little wine bar on a Saturday evening wandering through the new town. It was cosy and small with flickering candle light and a great wine and snack menu. We ordered a sharing platter and let me give you some advice, go small! There was so much meat, way more than we could eat. The lovely bar tender did tell us it was big but I still said yes as I didn’t imagine it would be quite so meat heavy. Anyway it was lovely and the wine was great. Another thing about a lot of the bars in Marrakech is that you can still smoke in them. A lot of them have separate smoking areas, even in restaurants. I was so tempted to smoke (if I go to a country where it’s more casual to smoke I definitely will, just a bit) but I was good and stuck to the wine. This place is definitely worth a visit just for the bar snacks alone. Check it out!

Café des Épices

I think this might have been my favourite place to just sit and relax in Marrakech. Based in the Medina this 3 story building has the best views from its roof terrace. I feel like we were lucky to nab a table as easily as we did because it soon filled up with people hoping to find a seat. The place is owned by Kamal Laftimi who also has Nomad, Le Jardin and Le Kilim, all in Marrakech. We visited them all part from Nomad but there will definitely be a next time.

I ordered the Harira which is a traditional Moroccan soup and a fresh juice (what else?) and Joe chose a salad. We followed lunch with some chocolate ice cream and a coffee that is locally known as a Nos Nos (half milk, half coffee). It was all good but it was really the view and the chilled out bohemian vibe that made it for me. I saw other people eating other dishes including sandwiches and fruit salads and everything looked great. A must visit while in the Medina if you can get a seat.

Le Kilim

This was my favourite of all of Kamal Laftimi’s restaurants. I don’t know if it was the time of day (I ate breakfast), the fact I was on my own or what but I just loved the time I spent there. I turned up alone on the morning of my birthday and asked to be seated outside. Though it’s right in the centre of the Ville Nouvelle it felt secluded as there was greenery separating the restaurant from the street.

I ordered a traditional mint tea (I became slightly obsessed with these), a mocktail by the name of “go away” which was carrot, apple and orange juice and french toast with fruit salad. It was all so good. Maybe my favourite thing that I ate. I sat and wrote some notes, face timed my Mum and just enjoyed a bit of solo time. Before I left I popped in to use the bathroom and it’s such a lovely space. Open, bright and airy with polished clay (which I love!) and pops of bright red paint. I took Joe on our last day for the same breakfast and it was just as good! My only regret is that we didn’t have an evening meal there but there’s always next time…

Le Jardin

On the evening of my birthday I managed to drag Joe out for long enough to enjoy a meal at this popular restaurant. Hidden away in the souks and set within the walls of a stunning Riad garden I can see why so many people love it there. Candles flickered, birds sang and the greenery was enhanced by the green paint on the walls. It was very “garden of Eden”.

I wasn’t feeling massively hungry but I knew I would have to have a starter because they served Pastilla, a traditional dish that I didn’t expect to like but had to try for myself. Made up of filo pastry filled with a savoury, spiced chicken or pigeon mix and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon it sounded bizarre. This version came with a cherry compote and a sweet cream and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t for me. I found it too sweet and too savoury all at the same time. When they put it on the table the smell of mince pies was strong! So confusing.

My main was a chicken and lemon tagine and Joe chose a slow cooked lamb dish. Both were delicious but I was a little bit disappointed although I can’t quite put my finger on why. They don’t serve alcohol so we both had Virgin Mojitos to end the meal with. I’d definitely go back for the dreamy setting alone but it wasn’t my favourite of the food I had during our stay.

16 Cafe

Great place for breakfast on Marrakech plaza in Gueliz. This is the more modern shopping area with a McDonald’s, Zara, Monsoon, etc. You can sit inside or there’s a huge terrace area of the weather is good. We sat outside for breakfast on a Sunday morning and ordered The Parisien which came with coffee, juice, pastries, toast, jam, butter, honey, eggs and a fruit salad. They had a huge choice of breakfasts including more traditional Moroccan style dishes but this was perfect for us. If you’re looking for a good breakfast at a good price this is the place.

Al Fassia

The first restaurant in Marrakech to have a team ran exclusively by women, this was high on our list of places to eat. As it says on their website “better a reservation than a disappointment” so be sure to book in advance.

After reading lots of good things about this place I couldn’t wait to try it. We skipped starters as we’d already had a 3 course meal for lunch and went straight in for mains. I went for lamb meatball tagine and Joe had lamb with prunes. Both were super tasty although I thought my meatballs were a little tough. Joe hadn’t been well so didn’t want desert but I went in for an apple and raisin pastry with ice which was delicious. I also discovered a new love for Rosé wine which is totally out of character for me but I just fancied it and it was so good. Definitely a new favourite. The restaurant itself was quite spacious but oddly felt a little cramped at the same time, the decor and service was old school but we felt relaxed and were looked after. Overall we had a great evening, the food was good and the staff were all super lovely. The perfect end to a week of eating!

Shopping

Marrakech is the perfect place for shopping. It’s too good! I honestly wish I’d taken an empty suitcase with me to fill up. The Medina is a shopping heaven, with all of the souks you can literally find anything your heart desires however the new town has some great concept stores and independent designers which are definitely worth checking out.

Some

Some describes itself as a slow concept store and is jam packed with with beautiful products from many different designers. From tiny trinkets to hand made skincare products and woven chairs there is a ton to choose from. The store is light and airy and has a beautiful terrace garden where you can sit and enjoy a mint tea or cold drink. The owner and staff are super friendly and on hand to give advice, you can even get your goods delivered to the uk.

33 Rue Majorelle

33 Rue Majorelle is a gallery/concept store showcasing a range of Moroccan designers and local brands. It can be found on Rue Yves Saint Laurent in Gueliz and is a stones throw away from Majorelle Jardin. The store itself is beautiful and modern with produce that ranges from jewellery to homeware. Definitely worth popping in and treating yourself after visiting the museums in the area although bear in mind it’s pricier than what you’d find in the souks.

Ensemble Artisnal

Before you get to Jemaa el fna and the souks you will likely walk by a nondescript looking building stood alone. On closer inspection it’s actually a covered market within some beautifully tiled walls, full of lots of different independent stalls all with the kind of produce you can find in the souks but without the need to haggle. This is because the prices have been set. I absolutely loved this place and went a couple of times. I bought my babouche slippers here, a beautiful silver bracelet as well as some souvenirs to bring home. The staff are super friendly and not at all pushy and you can spend some time browsing all of the stunning merchandise. There’s also a small cafe within the walls so you can sit and eat and have some tea. If you’d like to buy some well made, artisan treats without the hassle of haggling this is the place for you.

Excursions

The excursions we went on in Marrakech were both amazing. We booked them with Get your guide (who we also booked our airport transfer with) and they were completely professional, everything ran smoothly and the communication was fantastic. I can highly recommend and would absolutely use them again.

Hot air ballooning

We booked our first excursion before we went which was hot air ballooning. This was Joe’s idea and I really wasn’t sure about it. I don’t like heights, I hate flying, but I love an adventure so I said yes. It was quite expensive, around £260 for us both but worth every penny and you got a lot for your money. We were picked up, driven to the hot air balloon in an air conditioned car, provided with blankets, tea and coffee and given continuous information.

We were picked up early for this trip and when we arrived about an hour later it was still dark. A fire was lit outside and a beautiful tent was set up with seating and croissants and hot drinks. We then watch the balloons fill up with air and as it got lighter realised we were surrounded by other balloons going up around us.

Up in the air I didn’t feel scared at all mostly due to the confidence and professionalism of the guides. I was blown away (not literally) by the beauty and serenity of being up. It was perfectly calm and as the sun slowly came up, warm. Watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains I was quite emotional, it was just breathtaking.

We were up for around 45 mins to an hour and when we came down (with a pretty smooth landing) we walked back into the tent to find breakfast laid out on the tables. Fruit, hot drinks, juice, water, croissants, bread, yoghurts, omelette…it was the perfect ending to a perfect morning. The best thing I have ever done.

Atlas Mountains

We booked our second excursion while we were in Marrakech. We were picked up again but this time drove up to the Atlas Mountains and had the chance to explore some Berber villages. The Berbers are an ethnic group and they speak the Berber language rather than French or Arabic.

Our first stop was as at the Berber Women’s Argan cooperative where we saw Argan oil been made. It was fascinating to watch the women work and we got to sample some of the oils and some honeys. We also tasted Amlou which is a sweet paste made from ground almonds, honey and Argan oil. We were under no pressure to buy anything but of course I did. My Amlou is safe and sound waiting for the perfect opportunity to be eaten for breakfast.

After this stop we went on to meet another guide who was taking us on a hike up the mountain to see the Ourika waterfall. It was so much fun. The guide was really knowledgeable and had lived in the area all of his life. He was like a mountain goat jumping form rock to rock and helping us out over tougher parts. We stopped for mint tea by the waterfall and listened to Berber musicians before carrying on higher up into the mountains.

Just as we were starting to get tired we made the journey back down wandering through small stalls selling kilim rugs and jewellery and ending up by the river at the bottom of the mountain. We sat by the river which was full of make shift seating areas in bright colours, for a 3 course lunch before setting back off towards Marrakech.

Just before we reached the city we stopped off for a sunset camel ride and tea and biscuits. We were giving clothes to dress up in (I’m assuming just for the fun of it) and went of on a short journey. With the sun setting and the mountains in the distance is was bliss. I have to admit I did worry about the camels and how they are treated so I probably wouldn’t do it again for that reason but otherwise it was such a fun way to end the day and our trip to Marrakech. I would 100% recommend doing an excursion while you are there. It really broke up the holiday and both of the trips were so interesting and fulfilling.

Home time

So that’s the end of our trip to Marrakech. If you’re considering going but have being put off by the idea of being hassled I would say please don’t let that stop you. We had the most amazing time and as long as you are firm but fair you won’t have any trouble at all. It’s a place of colour, noise, fun, poverty, beauty, adventure and tea! So much mint tea. I swear I’ve never drank so much in my life, I was obsessed and even managed to find Moroccan mint tea in my local health shop when we arrived home. Anyway Marrakech is a city not to be missed so get booking!

Advice

• First things first, get yourself the pocket edition of the lonely planet Marrakech guide. My friend Holly recommended it and it really came in handy. It’s up today’s and has some great advice and recommendations.
• Always keep money and valuables out of sight and reach.
• Say “no thank you” and move on when people try to sell you anything or ask you for money.
• Don’t go with anyone when they offer you directions, they’ll expect payment and probably send you in the wrong direct just for shits and giggles.
• Don’t stop and look at your map in public. (See above)
• Go easy when taking photos of people, they don’t like it.
• Just be confident in what you’re doing and where you’re going and be firm but polite and you’ll be fine.
• Enjoy!

https://www.getyourguide.co.uk/

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