Author: Roxana Riley

Buongiorno, Hello, anyone there? Forgive me for not updating this blog in, wait for it, over a year!

Where the hell did the time go? I knew it had been a while but not that long. I keep searching the blog, adamant there must be a more recent post, but alas, nothing since February 2021.

In all fairness to myself it has been one heck of a year! The bakery has come on in leaps and bounds, we have a whole team of staff (managing them is an entire job in itself) and navigating the business through a pandemic has not been easy. I’m trying to cast my mind back over the last 15 months, a lot and nothing seems to have happened at the same time. It was a blur of bakery closures and struggling through staff shortages (covid), therapy (dealing with overwhelm), training two new bakers, a couple of UK holidays all while trying to exercise and maintain a social life. So pretty much the same as everyone, right?

But I’m here now, trying to get my head around my new laptop which is taking me some time as I usually do my blog posts using my phone. Insane now I think about it, no wonder I needed to start wearing glasses.

So what has pulled me from my radio silence and back to the world of blogging? That would be my recent trip to Rome.

Travel

I’m going to start with the getting there as that was what I was most concerned about. We had an early evening flight that got us to Camping airport in Rome at 9:30pm. None of this journey is of any interest but I wanted to highlight how easy it was. This was our first trip abroad since early 2020 and I was super anxious about getting everything right. I read up obsessively on all of the documents we needed to enter Italy. Some of it was a little contradictory but the thing that was clear is that we needed proof of our vaccinations and possibly a self certified statement to say we had recently tested and didn’t currently have covid. Oh and a high grade FF2P mask which I went out and purchased especially. I printed everything off, downloaded our vaccination passports, I was fully armed for every eventuality.

Friends, we weren’t asked for anything!

No statement, no covid passport, no test results. It wasn’t mentioned at all. We did have to wear masks on the flight but it could be any old mask which means I have a box of 20 fancy ones if anyone needs one. Pah!

Where we stayed

Usually I am the one who finds the accommodation when booking holidays but after the under stair cupboard with no natural light that we stayed in in Budapest, Joe has been a little wary of my choices (even though I found us some great accommodation in Cornwall). With that in mind he decided to choose where we stated in Rome. It was okay. Nothing special about it. A bedroom/dining area, tiny kitchen, tiny shower but the building was nice, it was clean and that’s all we needed for a short stay. The biggest selling point however was the location. Amazing!

We stayed in the Ponte district which is about a 5 minute walk from Trastevere (our favourite place in Rome) and the street we stayed on was perfect. We always use https://www.airbnb.co.uk/ when finding somewhere to stay and its great for finding information on what’s close to the area you’re staying. It was also cheaper to stay just outside of Trastevere while still being super close. The street we were on was Via di Monte Giordano and it was full of beautiful trattorias, a small supermarket and surrounded by other cobbled streets that were all full of cafes and bars. Everything we needed was on our doorstep and Castel Sant Angelo was literally at the top of the street, plus most other attractions were within walking distance.

Italy, and the spring and first love all together should suffice to make the gloomiest person happy.

Bertrand russell

What we did

Trastavere

On that first morning in Rome we spent an hour or so wandering the cobbled streets practically floating with happiness at how breathtakingly beautiful everything was. Every building, every door, even every wall was aesthetically pleasing. Peeling, faded paint in hues of pink, yellow and rust greeted us at every corner we turned, tumbling plants hung from balconies and windows, fresh water drinking fountains appeared, as if by magic, at the exact moment you realised you were thirsty. The sun kissed our shoulders as we made our way over the river Tiber to Trastevere.

According to Google, Trastevere is “a funky, bohemian area that clings to its centuries old, working class roots.” I don’t suppose that’s too bad of a description. It’s absolutely bohemian which is what we loved about it the first time we visited. It’s winding streets are full of independant cafes, art studios, boutiques and trattorias. The most effortlessly cool women stroll on by chatting animatedly to friends while smoking cigarettes. If Romans know that smoking is bad for you, they definitely don’t care. I didn’t see one person vaping or a single vape shop, I did see plenty of Tabaccaio, little kiosks dotted around the city and the only place that you can legally buy ciggarettes.

You will also find plenty of Basilica to visit. You can wander inside and gape at the jaw dropping interiors or maybe say a little prayer or light a candle if that’s your thing. I’m not a religious person but I would consider myself spiritual and even if you are neither of those things the architecture alone will be enough to peak your interest.

Sights and attractions

The reason we chose Rome as the first place to visit after the pandemic is because we had already been before and seen all of the major sights, which meant that this time around we could have a more relaxed time rather than rushing from attraction to attraction in the short amount of time we were there. That being said, because we were in such a great location, it was a short walking distance to most attractions so we did end up visiting a few again. It seems impossible to me that you could ever get bored of taking in the grandeur of the Trevi fountain or sitting on the Spanish steps and once you’re in those places, you may as well hop on over to the next as they’re closer than you think. We had planned on getting tickets to the Vatican museums but they were sold out but we walked around Vatican City anyway as we were heading that way for some awesome food. More on that later.

Villa Borghese Gardens

While wandering around Piazza del Popolo we made a last minute decision to visit the Villa Borghese gardens. I am a sucker for visiting parks, especially in hot cities when it can be hard to find a shady spot to relax under. I must add that Pizza del Popolo is a beautiful open square and quite special to me as it was my first proper sighting of the Rome we imagine when we first stumbled upon it on our first trip. There are a couple of huge domed buildings, a church and the city gates. It’s a wonderful places to sit and eat a slice of pizza rosso while planning your next move. Our next move was an aperol spritz and then the gardens.

It’s an uphill walk to the entrance to the gardens but once up there you are rewarded with an amazing view of the piazza and the city. Full of lush green plants, statues and temples, its definitely worth a visit while in the area. There’s also a cafe, bikes, golf buggies and scooters available to hire if you’re already done with walking for the day.

Campo de’ Fiori

You simply cannot visit Rome without sampling the goods from this bustling food market. I was pretty hungover on the day we went so I headed straight to a juice stall for a carrot, orange and ginger juice. It was so good and I swear I was instantly healed. All of the stalls are practically overflowing with fresh produce. Fruit, vegetables, oils, flowers. you can also buy ornaments and Italian crockery. It’s such an explosion of colour and sounds and if you’re anything like me you won’t be able to resist one of the fresh fruit cups. There are also plenty of places to explore, shop and eat while you’re in the area.

Ponte Sant Angelo

A delightful bridge that connects you to Castel Sant Angelo. The whole area is stunning, especially first thing in the morning or early in the evening. On the last day of our trip I got up early and took myself on a walk. I went to a little cafe at around 7am and ordered a cappuccino to take away. I was chuffed to bits with myself for doing that as I was so nervous about making an idiot of myself and felt like I stood out like a sore thumb. It was all fine though and the old boys working there helped me pick out the right coins to pay. Little things like that are what make my days that extra bit special.

I walked down to the bridge with my coffee and joined the throng of tourists and locals on their way to work. The bridge itself is strewn with tall statues of Angels, hence its name. Once at the other side, the Castel looms over you and if you turn to the right you’ll find a lovely tree lined garden full of dog walkers and benches. I sat their for a long while watching the city wake up and come to life. I always try to have a little time to myself wherever we go. Time to contemplate and enjoy just being. I also love the feeling of independence I get when I’m alone in a new place, its euphoric.

Ponte milvio and The Maxxi

On our last day in Rome there just happened to be an exhibition on by one of Joes favourite photographers, Daido Moriyama. It was exhibiting at The Maxxi and as it was 32˚ that day I was looking forward to getting out of the midday heat and seeing some art. The Maxxi itself is quite a trek out of the city centre so we hopped on a bus to get there. While the exhibition itself was amazing I had a whale of a time in the gallery shop! Don’t you just love a gallery shop? you can always find a good book or some other quirky treasures that you can’t find anywhere else. I came away with a new tote bag to add to my already quite large collection of totes that I always forget to use.

After spending an hour or so in the gallery we headed over to Ponte Milvio. We had already planned this out before hand because Ponte Milvio is where we stayed the first time we visited Rome. Its about 30 mins by bus from the centre of Rome and the walk from The Maxxi took us through a much more residential area. Full of scruffy, old apartment blocks, parks, and neighbourhood trattorias and cafes it’s a definite eye opener compared to the city centre. Once you cross over the bridge you enter into Ponte Milvio neighbourhood which if full of cafes and bars and where we ate some of the best food in Rome. Apart from the food and piazzas there’s not much in the way of tourist pulls but it is a glimpse into the life of the people and families who live in Rome going about their day and that is as fascinating to me as the architecture, if not more.

Coypus

I feel it would be remiss of me to talk about our trip without bringing up the delightful Coypus that Joe thought was a giant rat! Whilst walking along the Tiber one evening I looked down and happened to notice something swimming in the river. I get absolutely giddy at seeing wildlife so ran down the (approximately 100) steps to get closer to the river.

And that’s when I saw it, the cutest little thing. I followed it until it climbed out and it started drying itself off in front of me. It was honestly the funniest little thing. It seemed to be drying itself down with an invisible towel, even getting under its armpits. I posted a photo to Instagram and after a message from my friend Charlotte and a quick google, found that it was infact a Coypu, sometimes know as Nutria. I knew it wasn’t a rat!

Apparently they were introduced to Italy many years ago for their fur and are known locally to Italians as “Castorino” which means “little beaver”. Finding it honestly made my trip, has anyone else seen one in Rome before?

Anyway, this is where I leave you for now as this has taken much longer than expected and I’ve got nothing else done today!

Part two will be with you shortly, Arrivederci.

Love, Roxy

Let us never know what old age is. Let us know the happiness time brings, not count the years.

Ausonius

It’s Sunday evening and I’m sat in the studio while Joe watches the snooker. I came up as I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to write, but so far, for the whole hour I’ve been sat up here, I’ve pretty much done nothing. I called my Mum, scrolled Instagram, read up on my notes on “how to write a good blog”. Basically I’ve done everything I could think of to put off this writing process.

I do this with running too. As soon as I decide that I’m going for a run I suddenly have tons of things that need doing. Take this morning. All of a sudden I remembered that the bathroom needed cleaning and that I needed to smudge the entire house with sage right that second or I wouldn’t get the good vibes that had been promised to me by various woo woo accounts. (Not dissing these by the way, I love a bit of woo!) Anyway, you get the picture.

I did go for a run though, in fact, I had a really good day. I think that’s partly down to the fact that I had planned in advance a little morning ritual. Last night I decided that I would use the head space app as soon as I woke up to do a little morning meditation, that way it was done before I even had to think about it. I grabbed my ear phones and did 20 mins before I’d even got out of bed!

Then I came down, got a quick wash (gave the bathroom a quick clean) and burned some sage. I wafted it around my body as if this might give me some extra protection form whatever it is I’m protecting myself from. Negative energy? Either way I had a good day so it must have worked right? Then I put some upbeat music on (old Rhianna) and left the house. I wasn’t sure where I was going exactly but I ended up in the local park which was beautiful first thing. I ran back, beaming at everyone I passed and for the most part received some pretty blank stares. It didn’t faze me one jot! Once home I showered and made the best green smoothie ever! I’ll add the recipe on here actually. Then I drank coffee in the garden while reading A table in Venice. Ahh, and there we have it, the point to all of this rambling. Cook books.

I think I can safely say that I have a cook book obsession. I love them and find it hard to resist when a new one comes out. It’s really quite lucky for you, the reader, that I have bought (begged, borrowed and never given back) so many as I have learned the hard way that not all cook books are made equally! There are a handful that I come back to over and over and they’re the ones I’m going to share with you.

How to eat – Nigella Lawson

This is one of the first cook books I ever owned. In fact, I don’t remember any others before this and as I was only 19 when I received it, it was more than likely my first. This book is very special to me. My Aunt bought it for me and on the inside cover, written in gold pen it reads “Christmas 2000. Roxy. Enjoy-look after it, much love from us all, Dawn”.

I treasure this book. It’s falling apart at the seams, it’s covered in smudged finger prints on the outside and splashes of hot oil and splattered food stains on the inside but I would never upgrade it to a newer version as that in itself tells part of my story. It’s moved house around 5 times, even coming with me down to London. If I could only save one book in a fire it would be this.

This book got me through some tough times and also taught me everything I know about food. Not in a practical way but on an emotional level. I learned that not only was it okay to cook elaborate meals for myself but that I’m worth that effort. Cooking for just me is still one of the most exciting and caring things I do for myself. I don’t have to take anyone else’s preferences into consideration, I can have exactly what I want. Most of the time that thing is some kind of seafood pasta, piles of it with copious amounts of garlic and chilli and served with copious amounts of wine on the side. Just. For. Me.

The thing that I cooked the most from this book when I was younger was the Carbonara. It’s like comfort in a bowl and always reminds me of my Mum who used to cook it so often that if I close my eyes I can still see her doing it. She didn’t use pancetta back then, just ordinary bacon, she didn’t use fresh Parmesan either. It was that dried grated stuff in a little tub. I’ve never had it since but I swear I can smell it just from thinking of it. It might not have been a fancy carbonara but it was absolutely delicious and full of love. When I need comfort, nothing comes close.

The book is full of simple meal ideas for every occasion. Food for when you’re in a rush, food for when you’re tired, food for having people over (oh, the good old days) and food for little ones. It covers the basics like sauces, pastry, Yorkshire puds and the more elaborate sounding like, Choucroute Garnie, in a way that makes you feel that you could whip up anything with ease and confidence. This will always be my go to for comfort and pleasure, I hope it will become a favourite of yours too.

A Table In Venice – Skye McAlpine

I bought this book a year or so ago and it’s become a firm favourite. I can’t remember how I came across Skye McAlpine but as soon as I found her I quickly became obsessed! I listened to as many interviews with her as I could and lapped up her many stories of life in Venice and reminisced about my one and only visit too many years before. Her vintage aesthetic appealed too. Glamourous, soft, made up but somehow always with a relaxed approach and this is just her wardrobe. Her house is just as stunning, if not more so. At the time it was pink plastered walls and windows, now she has a new home which features bright pops of buttercup yellow and floral fabrics.

For me her book really came into its own in the first lock down when the sun was hot and I was spending most of my days cooking and pottering about the garden. All of a sudden I was able to live al fresco, something that usually only happens in rare good weather but in that first lock down every day seemed warm, bright and oh so long. We had drawn out dinners in our small yard (which, newly strewn with fairy lights and ferns, suddenly seemed warm and inviting), lingering over glasses of cold wine and plates of hot spaghetti.

The Tagliolini with shrimp and zucchini became a spring staple (as did bellinis) and at a time when we had been cut off from human contact dreaming of hosting lavish dinners or even just having a couple of friends around helped me get through those long week. And although freedom is now on the horizon, this book will remain a go to when adventure and travel call.

Eat – Nigel Slater

I couldn’t write about my favourite cook books without including Nigel Slater. His writing inspires me every time I set foot in the kitchen or garden no matter what I’m cooking or whose recipe I’m using. It’s especially inspiring when using no recipe at all and I’m scrambling around in the cupboards and fridge trying to pull something together. “What would Nigel eat?” is something i muse over quite often.

I imagine it would be a lonely leftover pork chop served alongside some steamed tender stem broccoli that he’d grown himself and had seen better days. He’d zhuzh it up with some miso paste and some light soy that he always has in the cupboard as a staple. He would serve it on a dark, ceramic plate and eat it at an old wooden table, a beam of sunlight streaming in through the small window, a small Japanese beer on the side.

The book, Eat, published in 2013, is the book I turn to when I need inspiration for a midweek dinner or quick supper. Each recipe is no longer than a page and you could barely even call them recipes, more short clear instructions with a side of inspiration if you need to substitute any of the ingredients suggested. It can be dipped in and out of, picked up and put down and I always seem to find something new. I absolutely love it and believe it’s a must have for any busy person who is fed up of takeaway and ready meals. Buy it immediately.

Slow – Gizzi Erskine

I will never know for sure whether I’m pronouncing her name right or not but this is the firdt of two books of hers that i own and i love both of them. Slow is the kind of book that makes you feel hungry as soon as you open it. Full of bold, deep flavours and warm ingredients that you know are going to taste good just from the photos. Think braised red cabbage, rich fish stews and creamy gratins.

My favourite at the moment is the Mallorca slow roasted lamb shoulder which is inspired by traditional Mallorcan cooking and tastes every bit as good as it sounds. I’ve always been a little fearful about cooking joints of meat but this sounded so simple that i just had to give it a go. I cant imagine an easier recipe for something so substantial and imressive. You just put the joint and veg in a big pot, pour in an entire bottle of wine and leave it for a few hours to do its thing. the result is mouthwateringly good. Tender lamb that falls of the bone and produces its own savoury sauce in the process, its delightful.

It’s not all about slow cooking either. In the recipe for crab linguine the ‘slow’ implied in the books title is in the preparing of the crab. It’s in the shopping, choosing, poaching and breaking up of the crab rather than in the cooking itself which is actually joyously and satisfyingly quick. Slow is a book for those rare long days when you have nothing ahead of you and no plans to keep you busy. The kind of days made for pottering. The kind of days that ought to be cherished as you never know when you’ll get another. There’s no chance of ever being bored when you own this book. Just time spent slowly slicing, deeply kneading and ravenously eating.

The Food of Sichuan – Fuchsia Dunlop

This last book is a new addition to my groaning book shelves. It was a birthday present from Joe after I’d told him about a cookery writer i had recently discovered who specialised in Sichaunese cooking. He couldn’t remember who I had said so bought me this in the hope it would be good. It was the exact book I’d told him about.

This style of cooking took me completely out of my comfort zone. I usually cook recipes like the ones from the books above. Bold stews, flavoursome pastas, roasted chickens. I’m so familiar with this type of food that I rarely use recipes, the flavours and ingredients are ingrained in me. Some of the recipe titles in this book blew my mind. ‘Silver ear fungus and rock sugar soup’, ‘Spicy blood stew’, and ‘Man and wife offal slices’ are a few I initially recoiled from. But the more I read the more curious I became about this unusual food. I headed down to the local Chinese super market with a list of ingredients. The first time didn’t go exactly to plan, the woman working there had no idea about the names of some of the ingredients.

After more reading I realised that this is Sichuanese cooking not Chinese and they don’t all have the same names. My second visit was more successful. The first thing I attempted was the Fish fragrant pork, hear me out. It doesn’t taste of fish but is seasoned with the same ingredients used for a certain fish dish. It was extremely good. Next I made fish fragrant aubergine and chicken, same name but two completely different dishes. It was even better! So good in fact that Joe declared he would never eat Chinese takeaway again. People, we had it two nights later! It wasn’t the same though and never will be. I cooked from it again, this time it was traditional Dan Dan noodles, again it was unbelievably good and unexpected as far as what we know Chinese cooking to be. Deep, earthy and fragrant is how I’d describe the food in this book. If you’re bored of the same old recipes and cuisines try this cook book. It will awaken your tired old taste buds and leave you longing for more.

I could honestly rave on about cook books forever but I think it would be better for everyone if I stopped talking and gave you the chance to try some of these for yourselves. Although amazon is annoying convenient and quick I would encourage you to buy from elsewhere. There are plenty of independent book shops online and if they’re not already, libraries will be open again soon. Or how about a book swap?!

What are your favourite books? Which recipes do you fall back on again and again? I’d love to hear in the comments or you can find me over on Instagram @roxyriley_flourandfeast

Hello! Oh my goodness it’s been so long since I’ve written a post. Since the New Year my life has been pretty hectic. The bakery is thriving but it takes a lot of energy to keep on top of it. That in itself is enough to keep me too busy to blog but then with general life maintenance (friendships, family, home, relationship) there’s not much time left for anything other than some winding down. I’ve had to make a decision to find the time to write because I love sharing with you so here I am at precisely 7:26am on a Sunday morning doing just that.

So, Marrakech. How do I even begin to put across just how wonderful it is? We got back a couple of weeks ago after spending a week there. Neither of us have been before and at the time of booking we had decided we wanted a culture shock. I love Europe, the beautiful architecture, the history, the food, but you kind of know what you’re getting and we were ready for a slap in the face kind of holiday and that is exactly what we got!

Where we stayed

As usual we decided to book our accommodation with Air bnb. When we went to Rome we made the mistake of staying in a hotel which is fine for a couple of days but after a week of walking we really wished we had stayed in an apartment where we could properly relax. Also the food markets were so amazing we really wanted to cook. Being Bakers/Chefs and not being able to cook the amazing produce was torture so we learned a lesson and since then have only stayed in apartments.

Having never being to Marrakech but having done our research we decided to stay in the new town. Reading up on the Medina it sounded chaotic and I really wanted to be able to escape if I wanted. I’m glad we made that decision however if we decide to visit Marrakech again I would definitely stay in a Riad now I have a better understanding of the place. Just for the experience really as they look stunning!

Gueliz

We stayed in Gueliz which was perfect. It wasn’t too crowded and was around a 30 minute, direct walk to the Souks. You could also hop on a bus for around 5dh which was about 40p. As for the neighbourhood it had pretty much everything you could ask for right on your doorstep. Boutiques, bakeries, bars, cafes, convenience stores, fast food outlets, a supermarket, chemists as well as high street stores like Zara and H&M. Believe it or not I didn’t go in either! The Ville Nouvelle (new town) is also home to designer shops and some of the best museums and restaurants in the city (which we’ll get onto later).

Because it’s a little more modern than the Medina (old town) you don’t have to worry as much about having your shoulders and legs covered as there’s a bit more of a modern outlook. However I pretty much stuck to it as I didn’t want to draw any unwanted attention to myself, especially as I ended up spending quite a bit of time on my own towards the back end of the week as Joe was unwell. Let me say this, I felt completely safe on my own in the new town but I’m not sure I would have gone as far as the souks on my own. That’s just my personal opinion. Maybe next time I would feel a little more confident having explored the place once before.

What we did

The souks

One of the first things we did was head to the souks (Moroccan for market) to see what all of the fuss was about. Sprawling out from the main square of the Medina are lots of little alleys known as the souks. They are incredible. As soon as you arrive you are hit with new sights, sounds and smells all at once but just go with it and let yourself get absorbed into your new surroundings.

Each little alley takes you by stall after stall of coloured textiles, silver and gold ornaments, bright leather babouche slippers, scarves, trinkets, jewellery, mirrors, spices…just an endless display of treats. All around you is the sound of horns beeping as people on mopeds wobble past you sometimes with their entire family on one! (We even saw a guy with a dog!)

Interspersed in this are guys with carts selling freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, or tables set up with the most wonderful tasting nougat and peanut brittle. You’ll wonder passed butchers and fruit stalls and a million wild cats. The dust will blow up and the stall holders will pour water on it to keep it at bay. Every person you pass will ask you for something. A smile, some money, a purchase, a look. “Nice to see you to see you nice!” said one gap toothed, leathery faced man.

You might have heard some horror stories about getting ripped off but keep your wits about you, keep your purse and phone safe and politely decline with a “no thank you” or a “la choukran” and you’ll be fine. Enjoy the experience, that’s what you’re there for aren’t you?

Jemaa el fna

This is the main square after Katoubia mosque and before the souks and it’s quite an experience. We came here a couple of times, once during the day and once after dark and I really recommend both.

It’s a wide open square that, as the sun starts to set, fills with more and more people. Women offering Henna, men huddled in groups playing instruments, snake charmers, monkeys on chains, men selling watches, women selling packs of tissues, men sending neon toys catapulting through the air, stall after stall of grilled food and fresh fruit juices and the many wide eyed tourists, curious to see this crazy, outdoor circus.

At one point we saw a huge group of people all cheering and walking over to explore we managed to look over their shoulders to see two small boys wearing boxing gloves having a match! I walked away as it was a little brutal for me but Joe told me they were really going for it! It’s like being on a film set. All around you the most bizarre scenes you can imagine and all the time people are whizzing past you on mopeds. Insane!

The Gardens of Marrakech

• Majorelle Gardens – An absolute must visit full of stunning cacti and beautiful blue hues. Brought back to life by YSL (who’s museum just down the road is also a must visit). Wander around the gardens, stop and sit at one of the benches and take it all in. The garden is also home to The Berber museum which is worth visiting while you’re there.
• The Cyber Gardens – There’s nothing cyber about these gardens apart from the fact you can pick up free WiFi there. Full of pathways, pretty green tiles and wild cats galore! It’s definitely worth taking the time to come here, especially to get a break from the hustle and bustle of the Medina.
• Le Jardin Secret – Hidden within the souks inside a historic Riad. One minute you’re making your way down tiny, dusty alleys trying not to get ran over and the next you’re in a tranquil, herb filled, garden paradise with tiny turtles and bird song. We sat and had some mint tea and a bite to eat on the cafe terrace while we planned our next move. Definitely worth a stop while you’re visiting the souks.

Where and what we ate

I have to be honest when I say we were a little disappointed with the food on offer. Not in the restaurants but out on the street. We were really hoping to try some amazing street food but unfortunately the only places we found were in Jemaa el fna and none of it seemed, how can I say this? Hygienic? Yes let’s go with that. The places we did eat were great!

Azar

We ate here on our first full night and it was amazing! Such a great introduction to our week of eating in Marrakech. We booked it last minute and were surprised to get a table as it seemed like a popular place. It was actually on the street where we were staying and once inside it looked pretty fancy!

We were taken to our seats and brought water and a little dish of crudités while we peruses the menu. We settled on a special menu for 2 people that allowed us to sample a bit of everything. We had 9 small plates of the chefs choice that included the best Baba Ghanoush I’ve ever had in my life. It also included hummus, a spectacular herb salad, and some little Middle Eastern sausages.

Our main course was a mixed grill which was really great but nothing to write home about and then the dessert! It was so delicious. A little Lebanese duo that consisted of Mouhalabieh (Lebanese pudding served with syrup with pistachios) and Mafroukeh Bil Ashta (semolina cake / “ashta”milk cream/ caramelized pistachios and cashews / confit orange zest / dattes and sherry vinegar syrup). Throughout the meal our wine glasses never went empty and we were entertained by belly dancers and male entertainers. Sounds dreadful but it was actually really good fun and added to the evening. It came to around £80 for us both including all of the food and a bottle of wine and water.

Amal

Amal is a not for profit women’s training centre in Gueliz that I was particularly looking forward to trying. From the street it doesn’t look like much but once through the gate you enter a beautiful little terrace full of orange trees. You can see the women working and it’s ran to a highly professional level with a daily rotating menu.

“Amal’s goal is personal transformation through job and life skills development for our trainees, a stepping stone to economic and social stability”

I ate there twice, the first time with Joe and the second time on my own. Bread and dips were brought to the table on both occasions and the first time we both had a simple vegetable tagine which was perfectly cooked, fresh and light. I felt like I’d eaten some real goodness afterwards. I also got a strawberry juice and Joe had a lemon and mint drink that was delicious.

The second time I ate there was on my birthday. Joe was ill so I decided to go alone. Google maps said it was 7 minutes away. Because I can’t read a map I continuously walked in the wrong direction and walked in circles over and over. It took almost an hour before I realised I was going the wrong way. Once I worked it out it did indeed take 7 minutes. This time I had the sea bass fillets which had been dipped in flour first before frying and were served with a salad and a cumin spiced mash potato. I drank the fresh lemon and mint drink followed by a pot of traditional mint tea. The atmosphere is relaxed and peaceful and I throughly enjoyed both visits plus its unbelievably cheap. Less than £10 both times.

Le 68 bar à vin

We stumbled upon this atmospheric little wine bar on a Saturday evening wandering through the new town. It was cosy and small with flickering candle light and a great wine and snack menu. We ordered a sharing platter and let me give you some advice, go small! There was so much meat, way more than we could eat. The lovely bar tender did tell us it was big but I still said yes as I didn’t imagine it would be quite so meat heavy. Anyway it was lovely and the wine was great. Another thing about a lot of the bars in Marrakech is that you can still smoke in them. A lot of them have separate smoking areas, even in restaurants. I was so tempted to smoke (if I go to a country where it’s more casual to smoke I definitely will, just a bit) but I was good and stuck to the wine. This place is definitely worth a visit just for the bar snacks alone. Check it out!

Café des Épices

I think this might have been my favourite place to just sit and relax in Marrakech. Based in the Medina this 3 story building has the best views from its roof terrace. I feel like we were lucky to nab a table as easily as we did because it soon filled up with people hoping to find a seat. The place is owned by Kamal Laftimi who also has Nomad, Le Jardin and Le Kilim, all in Marrakech. We visited them all part from Nomad but there will definitely be a next time.

I ordered the Harira which is a traditional Moroccan soup and a fresh juice (what else?) and Joe chose a salad. We followed lunch with some chocolate ice cream and a coffee that is locally known as a Nos Nos (half milk, half coffee). It was all good but it was really the view and the chilled out bohemian vibe that made it for me. I saw other people eating other dishes including sandwiches and fruit salads and everything looked great. A must visit while in the Medina if you can get a seat.

Le Kilim

This was my favourite of all of Kamal Laftimi’s restaurants. I don’t know if it was the time of day (I ate breakfast), the fact I was on my own or what but I just loved the time I spent there. I turned up alone on the morning of my birthday and asked to be seated outside. Though it’s right in the centre of the Ville Nouvelle it felt secluded as there was greenery separating the restaurant from the street.

I ordered a traditional mint tea (I became slightly obsessed with these), a mocktail by the name of “go away” which was carrot, apple and orange juice and french toast with fruit salad. It was all so good. Maybe my favourite thing that I ate. I sat and wrote some notes, face timed my Mum and just enjoyed a bit of solo time. Before I left I popped in to use the bathroom and it’s such a lovely space. Open, bright and airy with polished clay (which I love!) and pops of bright red paint. I took Joe on our last day for the same breakfast and it was just as good! My only regret is that we didn’t have an evening meal there but there’s always next time…

Le Jardin

On the evening of my birthday I managed to drag Joe out for long enough to enjoy a meal at this popular restaurant. Hidden away in the souks and set within the walls of a stunning Riad garden I can see why so many people love it there. Candles flickered, birds sang and the greenery was enhanced by the green paint on the walls. It was very “garden of Eden”.

I wasn’t feeling massively hungry but I knew I would have to have a starter because they served Pastilla, a traditional dish that I didn’t expect to like but had to try for myself. Made up of filo pastry filled with a savoury, spiced chicken or pigeon mix and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon it sounded bizarre. This version came with a cherry compote and a sweet cream and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t for me. I found it too sweet and too savoury all at the same time. When they put it on the table the smell of mince pies was strong! So confusing.

My main was a chicken and lemon tagine and Joe chose a slow cooked lamb dish. Both were delicious but I was a little bit disappointed although I can’t quite put my finger on why. They don’t serve alcohol so we both had Virgin Mojitos to end the meal with. I’d definitely go back for the dreamy setting alone but it wasn’t my favourite of the food I had during our stay.

16 Cafe

Great place for breakfast on Marrakech plaza in Gueliz. This is the more modern shopping area with a McDonald’s, Zara, Monsoon, etc. You can sit inside or there’s a huge terrace area of the weather is good. We sat outside for breakfast on a Sunday morning and ordered The Parisien which came with coffee, juice, pastries, toast, jam, butter, honey, eggs and a fruit salad. They had a huge choice of breakfasts including more traditional Moroccan style dishes but this was perfect for us. If you’re looking for a good breakfast at a good price this is the place.

Al Fassia

The first restaurant in Marrakech to have a team ran exclusively by women, this was high on our list of places to eat. As it says on their website “better a reservation than a disappointment” so be sure to book in advance.

After reading lots of good things about this place I couldn’t wait to try it. We skipped starters as we’d already had a 3 course meal for lunch and went straight in for mains. I went for lamb meatball tagine and Joe had lamb with prunes. Both were super tasty although I thought my meatballs were a little tough. Joe hadn’t been well so didn’t want desert but I went in for an apple and raisin pastry with ice which was delicious. I also discovered a new love for Rosé wine which is totally out of character for me but I just fancied it and it was so good. Definitely a new favourite. The restaurant itself was quite spacious but oddly felt a little cramped at the same time, the decor and service was old school but we felt relaxed and were looked after. Overall we had a great evening, the food was good and the staff were all super lovely. The perfect end to a week of eating!

Shopping

Marrakech is the perfect place for shopping. It’s too good! I honestly wish I’d taken an empty suitcase with me to fill up. The Medina is a shopping heaven, with all of the souks you can literally find anything your heart desires however the new town has some great concept stores and independent designers which are definitely worth checking out.

Some

Some describes itself as a slow concept store and is jam packed with with beautiful products from many different designers. From tiny trinkets to hand made skincare products and woven chairs there is a ton to choose from. The store is light and airy and has a beautiful terrace garden where you can sit and enjoy a mint tea or cold drink. The owner and staff are super friendly and on hand to give advice, you can even get your goods delivered to the uk.

33 Rue Majorelle

33 Rue Majorelle is a gallery/concept store showcasing a range of Moroccan designers and local brands. It can be found on Rue Yves Saint Laurent in Gueliz and is a stones throw away from Majorelle Jardin. The store itself is beautiful and modern with produce that ranges from jewellery to homeware. Definitely worth popping in and treating yourself after visiting the museums in the area although bear in mind it’s pricier than what you’d find in the souks.

Ensemble Artisnal

Before you get to Jemaa el fna and the souks you will likely walk by a nondescript looking building stood alone. On closer inspection it’s actually a covered market within some beautifully tiled walls, full of lots of different independent stalls all with the kind of produce you can find in the souks but without the need to haggle. This is because the prices have been set. I absolutely loved this place and went a couple of times. I bought my babouche slippers here, a beautiful silver bracelet as well as some souvenirs to bring home. The staff are super friendly and not at all pushy and you can spend some time browsing all of the stunning merchandise. There’s also a small cafe within the walls so you can sit and eat and have some tea. If you’d like to buy some well made, artisan treats without the hassle of haggling this is the place for you.

Excursions

The excursions we went on in Marrakech were both amazing. We booked them with Get your guide (who we also booked our airport transfer with) and they were completely professional, everything ran smoothly and the communication was fantastic. I can highly recommend and would absolutely use them again.

Hot air ballooning

We booked our first excursion before we went which was hot air ballooning. This was Joe’s idea and I really wasn’t sure about it. I don’t like heights, I hate flying, but I love an adventure so I said yes. It was quite expensive, around £260 for us both but worth every penny and you got a lot for your money. We were picked up, driven to the hot air balloon in an air conditioned car, provided with blankets, tea and coffee and given continuous information.

We were picked up early for this trip and when we arrived about an hour later it was still dark. A fire was lit outside and a beautiful tent was set up with seating and croissants and hot drinks. We then watch the balloons fill up with air and as it got lighter realised we were surrounded by other balloons going up around us.

Up in the air I didn’t feel scared at all mostly due to the confidence and professionalism of the guides. I was blown away (not literally) by the beauty and serenity of being up. It was perfectly calm and as the sun slowly came up, warm. Watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains I was quite emotional, it was just breathtaking.

We were up for around 45 mins to an hour and when we came down (with a pretty smooth landing) we walked back into the tent to find breakfast laid out on the tables. Fruit, hot drinks, juice, water, croissants, bread, yoghurts, omelette…it was the perfect ending to a perfect morning. The best thing I have ever done.

Atlas Mountains

We booked our second excursion while we were in Marrakech. We were picked up again but this time drove up to the Atlas Mountains and had the chance to explore some Berber villages. The Berbers are an ethnic group and they speak the Berber language rather than French or Arabic.

Our first stop was as at the Berber Women’s Argan cooperative where we saw Argan oil been made. It was fascinating to watch the women work and we got to sample some of the oils and some honeys. We also tasted Amlou which is a sweet paste made from ground almonds, honey and Argan oil. We were under no pressure to buy anything but of course I did. My Amlou is safe and sound waiting for the perfect opportunity to be eaten for breakfast.

After this stop we went on to meet another guide who was taking us on a hike up the mountain to see the Ourika waterfall. It was so much fun. The guide was really knowledgeable and had lived in the area all of his life. He was like a mountain goat jumping form rock to rock and helping us out over tougher parts. We stopped for mint tea by the waterfall and listened to Berber musicians before carrying on higher up into the mountains.

Just as we were starting to get tired we made the journey back down wandering through small stalls selling kilim rugs and jewellery and ending up by the river at the bottom of the mountain. We sat by the river which was full of make shift seating areas in bright colours, for a 3 course lunch before setting back off towards Marrakech.

Just before we reached the city we stopped off for a sunset camel ride and tea and biscuits. We were giving clothes to dress up in (I’m assuming just for the fun of it) and went of on a short journey. With the sun setting and the mountains in the distance is was bliss. I have to admit I did worry about the camels and how they are treated so I probably wouldn’t do it again for that reason but otherwise it was such a fun way to end the day and our trip to Marrakech. I would 100% recommend doing an excursion while you are there. It really broke up the holiday and both of the trips were so interesting and fulfilling.

Home time

So that’s the end of our trip to Marrakech. If you’re considering going but have being put off by the idea of being hassled I would say please don’t let that stop you. We had the most amazing time and as long as you are firm but fair you won’t have any trouble at all. It’s a place of colour, noise, fun, poverty, beauty, adventure and tea! So much mint tea. I swear I’ve never drank so much in my life, I was obsessed and even managed to find Moroccan mint tea in my local health shop when we arrived home. Anyway Marrakech is a city not to be missed so get booking!

Advice

• First things first, get yourself the pocket edition of the lonely planet Marrakech guide. My friend Holly recommended it and it really came in handy. It’s up today’s and has some great advice and recommendations.
• Always keep money and valuables out of sight and reach.
• Say “no thank you” and move on when people try to sell you anything or ask you for money.
• Don’t go with anyone when they offer you directions, they’ll expect payment and probably send you in the wrong direct just for shits and giggles.
• Don’t stop and look at your map in public. (See above)
• Go easy when taking photos of people, they don’t like it.
• Just be confident in what you’re doing and where you’re going and be firm but polite and you’ll be fine.
• Enjoy!

https://www.getyourguide.co.uk/

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