The actual life of Riley

We arrived in Budapest at 2:30am on a Sunday morning. Ouch. Later that day, much later than intended, we headed out to make the most of our few days. We had Sunday afternoon, all of Monday and Tuesday morning. Here are some of the things I loved.

1.First things first, breakfast. That’s right, I always have my priorities straight. We headed to Lumen Café which is a great spot in the 8th district, Josefvaros, where we were staying. Bright and spacious with a great outside area, it was the perfect space to spend an hour or so planning our day. We were pretty late arriving so missed some breakfast options (like freshly squeezed orange juice and croissants) but the choices were still good. I went for Granola, black tea and a cherry juice (amazing) and Joe opted for bacon and eggs and a coffee. Both were very good and set us up for the day ahead. Wifi, good coffee and balloons on the ceiling…whats not to like? It would also be good for those of you with little ones as it had a room just off the main area with lots of art and fun to keep them entertained. We also heard they have daily live music too. We didn’t catch any but would love to check it out when we (inevitability) go back.

2.The Hungarian Parliament building is located in Kossuth Square, on the banks of the beautiful Danube, Pest side. We actually stumbled upon it by accident strolling to Margaret Island. It’s striking neo gothic style stopped us in our tracks and we sat and rested on one of the many benches situated in the square. Although we didn’t go inside you can book guided tours if that’s your thing. The outside of the building is covered in many statues and there’s a huge statue of Gyula Andrássy, a former Prime Minister of Hungary located on the south side. With pretty wild flowers growing outside it’s a lovely spot to sit and admire the glorious rotund domes and take a break on the long walk along the Danube.

3.Margaret Island is a small island in the middle of the Danube connected to the city by a bridge aptly called Margaret bridge. It’s a calming area of green in a busy, urban city and popular with joggers and dog walkers alike. It’s also a great space to take some time out, read or eat a giant cotton candy stick like I did. There’s a musical fountain, some old ruins and what looks like a stunning Japanese garden that we didn’t know about until after we left. We did however discover one of our favourite things to do in Budapest. Scoooot!

4.Hop on a scooter! Whatever you’re doing, wherever you are, you have to have a go on one of these. We buzzed all around Margaret Island on ours and then buzzed out of there and along the Buda side of the Danube. I have to admit I was a teeny bit scared at first, they go 22 kph which, for someone who doesn’t drive, seemed pretty fast. Once on one however you couldn’t get me off. There’s so much to see and do in Budapest and using the electric scooters made a massive difference and we’re just so much fun! They also help the blisters I was developing from all of the walking before we discovered them. They’re super easy to use, just download the app and you’re off!

5.If you’re in Budapest you have to visit a Ruin bar. These are basically bars that have being built amongst the ruins of abandoned buildings, car parks, old stores. Wherever there’s an empty space there’s a ruin bar. We headed to what appears to be the most popular, Szimpla Kert. It was huge! I was expecting a small bar with mismatched furniture but this was insane. Remember that scene in the Labyrinth with The Junk Lady, where Sarah ends up in her bedroom full of junk? Well imagine that but with coloured lights, music and cocktails. Amazing!

6.Right next door to Szimpla Kert was Street Food Karavan which is an outdoor street food set up. There’s a fab variety of food from countries all over the world but we settled for hummus and pitta, great for soaking up the cocktails we’d just sank.

7.Visit Szechenyi Baths to while away a couple of hours in the medicinal waters, supplied to the baths by two thermal springs. It’s not too expensive but remember to take a costume, flip flops and a towel otherwise it gets a little pricey. We forgot all of the above and ended up paying over the odds which was even more frustrating when a member of staff refused to give my deposit back after the towel I was given at the desk suddenly wasn’t the right one upon returning. We sorted it out eventually (I basically refused to leave without my money) and tried not to let it ruin what had been an incredibly fun experience. The baths themselves have both indoor and outdoor pools including a whirl pool which was so much fun and surprisingly fierce. There are also cold pools to dip into if that’s your thing, its absolutely not mine! The water was lovely and warm and we were lucky to have some sun as we’d chosen to bathe in the outdoor area. The water is said to have many benefits due to its valuable minerals, including sulphite, magnesium, calcium and sodium.

8.Have a bite to eat at Mazel Tov. A stunning middle eastern cafe/restaurant situated in the Jewish Quarter. It was under restoration when we were visiting which meant no grill which in tuen meant no meat which was fine by us as it was the hummus and baba ghanoush we were after. We also ordered Israeli olives, falafel and flatbreads, all amazing! It was the smoothest hummus I’ve ever eaten, I’ve thought about it often since. The baba ghanoush was so creamy and smoky I could have eaten a barrel full of it. Definitely a must visit if you’re in Budapest.

9.Take a trip to the Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center and marvel at his wonderful images. The center houses several exhibitions throughout the year and whether interested in photography or not there’s sure to be something to peak your interests. There’s also a cool little cafe next door serving a few light bites and great coffee.

10.Have breakfast at Bluebird Cafe situated in the Jewish District. We stumbled upon it when exploring on our first day and went back to eat the morning we left. It has a chilled out atmosphere with a mixture of bright artwork , mismatched furniture and old coffee grinders scattered round the place. They make a very good coffee and grind their own beans and you can also buy coffee beans to takeaway. The staff are super lovely too. They have an extensive breakfast menu, I had banana bread, croissant and homemade strawberry jam, it came with a hot drink and a juice all for around £7. Bargain!

11.EXPLORE! Walk, bike, scoot, jog, whatever you like but get out there and discover things. It’s a good idea to have plan but we happened upon The Great Synagogue, St Stephens Basilica, Heroes Square, Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion all by getting out there and seeing where our feet took us. It really is a beautiful city with so much to see and do. Just remember to take your budgie smugglers and some plasters.

Our week in Croatia was beautiful, exciting and jam packed with adventure but adventure doesn’t always have to be big and bold. It can be calm and quiet.

During our stay Joe forced me to make no plans for 3 whole days and I was honestly panicked. 3 whole days of nothing. But what would I do? “Relax” he told me. I absolutely love relaxing, when I’ve planned my relaxation. 3 days without plans filled me with dread and anxiety but it turned out that the unplanned adventures were some of my favourites.

The moon and the opera.

We took half a bottle of white, a pack of cigarettes and went to sit behind a building on some rocks that I’d discovered the day before. It was dark and the sea splashed against the rocks as we sat like a couple of teens swigging wine from the bottle. As we inhaled the minty fumes (I’m a menthol smoker, what can I say?) we saw a bright pink streak of light in the distance. What the hell was it? Joe thought it was maybe a light on top of a building in Split which was just across the water. The next time we looked it seemed a little bigger which was when I realised it was the freakin’ moon! We were both speechless. It was so pink and so bright! As we watched it slowly emerge from behind the mountains it was like watching the sun set in reverse. I’ll never forget that beautiful, big blood moon.

We’d seen earlier in the day that some kind of concert was on in the square near the apartment so made our way back. The square had been made into an outside concert area with a stage and the best part…it was Opera. We sat outside drinking our (now warm) wine from plastic cups and listened to the singers as the constant chorus of cicadas and planes overhead tried to drown them out. My favourite evening.

The abandoned fairground.

Ahh, the hotel. This was so cool but so scary. We happened upon it during a long walk along the coast checking out the neighbouring Kastelas. As a photographer Joe was keen to check it out so we climbed in and did a little exploring. Graffiti covered the walls and broken debris and glass covered the floor. Either a fire had destroyed it or fires had been set after it had closed down. Either way it was spooky as hell.

The fairground outside was even weirder. Calm and still, not a person in sight but a full on set up. We used the opportunity to take some photos and creep ourselves out. It was definitely one of the stranger moments of the trip.

Mastrinka-The old olive tree.

This was only a 5 minute walk from our apartment. At 11 metres height with a radios of 23 metres it was pretty big. A stunning 1500 year old olive tree. How insane is that? Imagine the things it has seen and tales it could tell. Not only was it beautiful it was also humming with Cicada. For years on holidays I have longed to spot a Cicada, a mysterious insect that sings a loud mating song. Finally I got to see one. I could hear them all over the old olive tree and as I followed the sound it took me to a branch and there it was on the underside, huge and very noisy. I was so chuffed to have finally glimpsed one, it made my day.

On those 3 days I really did find time to relax too. We swam in the sea and I actually did swim. It was amazing. I also lounged around like a mermaid on the rocks, Joe fished and we just enjoyed being. I enjoyed some alone time too. I explored the little streets, went for coffee, jogged and read on the beach. In fact my mornings on the beach were probably my favourite part of the holiday.

Every morning whilst Joe still slept I would take myself off to the beach with my towel and a book. It was the best time to go. Not as many people and a little cooler. On one of the mornings I listened to music but mostly I just hung out preferring to hear the sound of the nature around me. Cicadas singing, crickets chirping and waves crashing. It was a beautiful start to my mornings and I would then go back to the apartment refreshed and ready for breakfast and coffee.

If you’re thinking about going to Croatia I can absolutely recommend Kastela. It’s small and quiet but you don’t have to go far to experience some excitement and the hustle and bustle of Split is only 27 minutes away. With a choice of national parks and islands to explore too it makes the perfect base for some time away.

Hi! I’m back. Sorry for the delay. I’ve been writing all of my blog posts out in my notes app before copying them onto WordPress and a couple of days ago, when I went to copy the post that I had all ready and edited, I pressed delete by accident! Gaaaaaaaah! It’s the second time it’s happened and it’s so fucking annoying! It’s okay though. It’s okay, it’s okay. I’ve realised that I can just write up a draft on WordPress and it will automatically save. Duh! So, let’s start over.

Hi. I’m back and this post is about the best parts of our trip. Croatia- the highlights! By highlights I mean the things we did that you might want to do too if you’re ever over that way.

Trogir

Lets begin with lovely Trogir which is a small town to one side of Kastela. It takes about 10 minutes in car and maybe 15 on the bus. It consists of a tiny old town which is on a small island accessible by bridges, and when I say small I mean small. The little town is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and beautiful old buildings dotted with restaurants and small shops. Once out the other side there’s a beautiful water front lined with trees and bars and the fortress Kamerlengo.

We strolled through the streets stopping for Oranginas (why do I only drink these on holiday?) before making our way to the Green Market. There are some greats sights to visit in Trogir, like the St. Lawrence Cathedral, but we had come for the markets.

It was full of stalls heaving with the weight of fresh fruit and veg. They were overflowing. Because Croatia has an abundance of figs and olives you’ll also find the locals selling homemade olive oils and fig wine as well as the actual figs picked from their trees. It’s a great place to eat, pick up ingredients and take photos.

After the Green Market we headed over the road to the covered fish market, which we were super excited about. It opens at 6am and close at 3pm but the first time we went we arrived at 1pm and almost everything was gone so get there early. Lesson learned we went again the next morning and oh what a joy! Tables laden with freshly caught fish, octopus, clams….This is what we were after! We chose carefully as I had a recipe in mind but I could have easily bought everything! I tend to get carried away around food.

Before we left we stopped for a very traditional Croatian snack, Cevapi. I’ll go into more detail in the food talk chapter but know this, it was very good. If you’re in Split make the time to visit Trogir. It can be done in half a day and it’s only 30 mins away. You won’t be disappointed.

Krka National Park

This was something I was really looking forward to. A little swimming, a little walking and being surrounded by trees. This is my idea of heaven, people!

It was about an hours drive from where we were staying and it’s huge. There are 5 entrances to choose from depending on where you want to explore. We were heading to Skradinski Buk, the park’s largerst waterfall. Once parked up you can jump on a boat to the waterfall or if you’re feeling fit you can walk the 5k walk. We weren’t feeling fit, we were feeling hot, so we took the boat but now I wish we had walked there and taken the boat back. Oh well. You live and you learn.

The short journey was dreamy. Rugged, tree lined hills and blue waters on a breezy open boat. What’s not to love? Once there you’re free to explore and this is were I was slightly disappointed. It’s full of people! Don’t get me wrong I love people, I’m a people person, but I thought this was going to be more serene and magical, which it would have been without all of the bloody people! We headed onto a trail towards the falls which is about an hour long. Little bridges connect the pathways and the clear water all around is full of fish. It’s the bluest water imaginable, almost turquoise. All along the walk there are views of the stunning falls and you can hear them all around you. It’s beautiful.

Once at the base of Skradinski Buk we chose a quiet spot to swim, away from the busy falls. As I’m not much of a swimmer I spent my time in the water hanging off Joe like a koala. It was pretty rocky and slippery underneath so I didn’t feel confident at all. I found a rock and perched myself on it to give Joe a break (I’m kind like that). Although there are a few food shacks we’d brought a picnic and we found a shady spot under a huge tree were we could chill out for a while. As lizards ran playfully around the trunk we ate cheese, ham and bread around and a big bag of salted Lays crisps. They didn’t do salt and vinegar anywhere throughout the whole of our trip, much to Joe’s dismay.

After lunch I decided I couldn’t leave without swimming by the waterfalls. There was more of a natural incline into the water so I felt a little more confident to go it alone and I’m so glad I did. There’s something about facing your fears that makes you feel invincible isn’t there? That feeling is the best ever!

A few pointers

• In the summer months it’s super busy with tourists so arrive early or for a cheaper ticket, arrive late.
• It’s very rocky and slippery on the surface of the lakes so bring flip flops or swimming shoes if you’re not a confident swimmer or if you just have sensitive soles.
• The food is expensive and average, take a picnic.
• This really goes without saying but sunscreen and water is a must!

Hvar

Melita told us to explore the islands and Hvar was on her list of places to visit. It’s accessible by catamaran from Split ferry port and we booked the tickets in advance. As soon as we stepped off the boat we could tell two things straight away. This was an island for people with money (so not us) and for people who like to paaaarrrttyyy! I think when women (and by women I mean girls in their late teens) stroll around in nothing more than bikinis accessorised with huge sunnies and jewellery, that’s a major giveaway. Another giveaway was the hoard of gleaming white, pristine super yachts in the harbour. Wow!

After eating what turned out to be an over priced but underwhelming breakfast by the harbour (free Prosecco though, so I was happy) we decided to take a walk to explore the island a little. Walking past the yachts Joe pointed out that the guy in front looked like Christian Horner (I know who this is from Sunday afternoons spent watching the Grand Prix, and by watching I mean scrolling through Insta while Joe watches). “Actually that also looks like Bernie Ecclestone. It is! It’s Christian Horner and Bernie Ecclestone!” As this realisation came about for Joe the penny was slowly dropping for me. Christian Horner, Mr Geri Halliwell! Oh my god! I’m about to meet a spice girl!!

I tried to discreetly look around. She had to be here, surely he’s brought her to this beautiful island. I hung around as long as I could before Joe reminded me we were only here until 6 and that Mrs Horner May never arrive. As I reluctantly walked away we walked by a selection of small boats and I saw a sign, “Rentaboat”. I suggested the idea to Joe and a quick boat lesson and market stop off later, we were out in the open waters! This was probably my favourite part of our time in Croatia. We drove all around the Pakleni islands sailing past party boats with huge inflatable flamingos and huge yachts. It was so cool! Then it was my turn. “Oh my god I’m driving a freakin’ boat!”. My hair was blowing wildly, cool mists of water were spraying over me and I felt completely free. It felt incredible.

After a while we decided to stop for food at one of the small islands. We arrived at this cool looking, shack-like bar and moored the boat (I’ll skim over the part where we got the anchor stuck in some rocks and Joe had to scuba in to get it out). Just wow! There was a small bar followed by an eating area and beyond that was a relaxing area with double beds and a masseuse! Eeeek! We ordered wine and seafood and looked out over the sea whilst chatting about how amazing it would be to own a yacht and stroking a dog that kept coming under our table. I didn’t get a massage as we had to get the boat back but there’s always next time. We finished the day by eating gelato by the harbour while we waited for the boat to take us back to Split. This was by far one of my favourite days and although I’d probably choose a different main island next time, I highly recommend renting a boat and doing a bit of exploring. It cost around £100 but was the best money we spent.

Ps. The next day Geri Horner posted a photo of herself to social media. She was on a jet ski off the island of, that’s right, bloody Hvar!!

We arrived at our apartment in Croatia just before 8pm. It was a long day but we took it easy knowing we had 8 days in Croatia. We stopped for lunch in the Slovenian countryside and relaxed into the journey a little, no longer in a rush. We ate lunch outside on a patio overlooking the lush surroundings. Joe was almost tempted by the horse burger (when in Rome) but settled for a regular old cow at the last minute. It was good to take a moment to appreciate the journey rather than rushing to get to the next place. After a cold glass of Rosé and another wee (it was a long journey and I have a weak bladder) we were back on the road.

A few hours later and we were in Croatia. The border was a little tiresome. Queues and intense heat do not go well together. I thanked the universe for the millionth time for air con. Driving into Kastela we were a little apprehensive. It looked a little run down in places and we had no idea what to expect but we needn’t have worried. The sun was setting as the streets started getting narrower and prettier. Warmly lit and cobbled, fig trees hanging gracefully over fences. We turned down a tiny street and into a car park and then we saw the sea. It was the most magical sight. The water was high in the harbour, rickety wooden boats bobbed on the water and the air was balmy. Joe and I looked at each other and beamed! I will never forget that moment, this was exactly what we needed.

The apartment was literally a few steps from were we stood. We could see the sea from the front door! Melita came to meet us and we were lucky enough to have another lovely host. She had an amazing energy and seemed genuinely pleased to see us. She explained that she’d lived in the building for over 20 years and her parents still lived upstairs. They’d turned the front into a studio apartment. It was small but perfect and felt surprisingly spacious. It had a little 2 ring hob, a flat screen tv, a washing machine and most importantly, air con.

She sent us a list of all the best islands to visit and told us to contact her about anything then she turned to us and said, “Go and explore this beautiful country. Visit the islands, try the food and see what you like for yourselves.” And we did.

Kaštela itself is made up of 7 small settlements along the coast between Trogir and Split. We were staying in Kaštel Štafilić which after having a little explore I’ve decided was the best one to stay in. Full of little Konobas (small family run restaurants), pebbly beaches and a maze of little cobbled streets. Most of the gardens had fig and olive trees which the locals wisely used to make oils and wine which they often sold on the street. There were also bakeries, butchers and supermarkets close by making it easy to cook good food in our little kitchen.

There isn’t much of a night life in Kaštel Štafilić but the konoba’s stayed open as late as we needed (which isn’t that late now I’m almost 40, weep, weep) and we were happy having a more chilled holiday. The next few days were filled with a combination of exploring and relaxing, which turned out to be the perfect combination.

We finished up our first evening eating pizza and grilled chicken by the sea and drinking wine that came by the carafe. (why is it so much more fun that way?) We fell into bed full, content and to be honest, absolutely knackered. This travelling larks a killer isn’t it?

The next morning I rise early. I want to fit in a quick run before we eat breakfast. I know, I know, I’m on holiday and supposed to be relaxing but I’ve been running every week since April and I didn’t want to break my streak. I’ve also been putting a lot of work into incorporating exercise into my life as self care not a punishment so it felt necessary to still do it.

Off I went running past houses, grapevines, early morning workers, until I ended up on an industrial estate. I have to admit, I was a little hesitant. What if someone dragged me into one of the buildings never to be seen again? “Just keep running”, I said to no one in particular.

Once back at Yahanatou’s I had a quick shower before breakfast. Oh the lovely breakfast Yahanatou had prepared. Breads, cheeses, fruit, jams, meat, green tea. All set up in the little court yard garden. We shared stories about our lives back home and Oliver (Yahanatou’s husband) joined us too. It was a bright, warm morning and the local wasps decided to join us. To say I’m not a fan of flying insects is putting it mildly. While I was flapping around Oliver calmly walked away from the table without saying a word and came back with a glass that he just popped over the wasp and carried on eating like nothing had happened. What a guy!

Sadly it was time to leave, we hugged and I promised to write (which I will) before we set off on the next part of our journey. We’d decided to pick up some bread for the journey and not long after we left the house we spotted a huge queue outside of a bakery. Surely a good sign? We pulled over and queued for 10 minutes or so before entering the little bakery. It was full of cakes, tarts and bread. Joe chose a baguette and I chose a millefeuille. It was the perfect dessert after the savoury breakfast.

Approximately 7 hours and 3 toilet breaks later we are in Austria. The scenery has changed dramatically, it’s breathtaking. One thing we didn’t expect was the amount of tunnels. The last tunnel we drove through seemed to last forever, as we came out of it and light hit us I can’t describe the view in front of us. Let’s just say it was emotional. This is what we had been waiting for, absolute pure beauty. Majestic snow capped mountains all around us, raw and rugged. It was mesmerising.

A few winding roads later and we were in the little town of Großarl which is located right in the middle of a valley. Carmen our host came to greet us and we were surprised to find we weren’t staying in her house, we were staying in a little room at the base of a larger hotel. She ran it as a business. She was lovely, originally from Italy but had also lived in London for a while before settling in Austria. After giving us a key, she wished us a happy stay and disappeared. I was relieved. The thing about staying in airbnbs is you have to be ready to converse with people at any moment, although that’s one of the lovely things it’s also tiring and I was happy to not have to deal with anyone, as lovely as they had all been.

There wasn’t a lot going on for an overnight stay, it’s a place for hiking, mountain climbing and skiing rather than a stopover but it was beautiful. Every wooden house absolutely perfect. Not a thing out of place, not a drop of litter anywhere and flowers everywhere. Seriously, every house was covered with baskets and window boxes filled with geraniums.

After a walk we ended up at one of only 3 or 4 places to eat. The super market and bakery had closed already and we ended up outside an old fashioned looking hotel restaurant. Thankfully the food was much better than the place looked and I finally got to try spätzle! I ordered an Aperol spritz and the most Austrian dish ever, need goulash with spätzle. Spätzle is kind of like pasta but instead of a solid dough a soft batter is dropped into water producing moreish dumplingy noodles. It was so good!

We sat for a couple of hours winding down and chatting about what had been our favourite part of the adventure so far. Only 3 days in and we had seen so much.

The next morning we had a breakfast of croissants and coffee at a little bakery. I tried (and pretty much failed to recall my GCSE German. Hallo. Guten morgen. Bitte. Danke….pathetic. As we drove away from Austria I felt a little sad that we hadn’t spent more time there, I longed to get into the mountains and explore but I wasn’t sad for too long as Croatia was just around the corner…

So we were back on the road, this time heading to Strasbourg to stay with a woman called, you guessed it, Yahanatou. We took a wrong turn on the way and ended up at a roadside bakery. It was a huge, commercial looking set up. Think Pets at Home for croissants. We stocked up on tarte aux pommes and croissants and carried on our way.

Valenciennes to Strasbourg is a good 5 hour drive as Strasbourg is onthe border of Germany. I have to admit I feel a little bad for Joe. My head was lolling around like a bladder on a stick for most of the journey. What can I say? Travelling makes me sleepy.

We pulled into a beautiful street with a huge house and went to the gate. The happy face of Yahanatou came to greet us and what a greeting! We walked into a stunning courtyard full of wind chimes, herbs and fruit trees. She motioned for us to sit at a little table and brought us out a special hibiscus drink. She then brought out some biscuits. “Do you recognise these?” Erm, not really no. “No? They’re from Ickier.” No sorry, we don’t have that back home. “What? Yes you do. Ickier!” Ickier, Ickier…I searched my mind for what she could be saying and then it suddenly dawned on me. “Ikea!” I squawked at last. “Oh Eyekeya” she repeated, laughing playfully at my accent.

After our refreshments Yahanatou showed us where we were staying. It was a beautiful outbuilding that she had turned into another home. Her daughter lived in it but was away on holiday so we had the whole place to ourselves. It was spacious, modern and full of African art and trinkets. It had a polished concrete floor where Yahanatou told us she held yoga classes.

She’d left some maps and leaflets in the room and gave us some tips about where to visit before directing us to the bus stop. As we walked away she called to me “Roxana! What time will you be leaving tomorrow?” Around 9. “Ok, I’ll have your breakfast ready for 8”. Oh my god. I love her!

Strasbourg was the opposite of Valenciennes. It was vibrant but quaint. Full of tourists, flowers, old beautiful buildings with architecture clearly influenced by France and Germany. There were rivers and bridges. It even has a gothic cathedral, Notre-dame. It was a little like going from Hull to York.

We wondered around looking for somewhere to get a bite to eat which was super easy as there were signs everywhere for Flammkuchen. A speciality in the Alsace region. It translate to “flame pastry”.

It was really good. Like a carbonara pizza. I like my pizzas paper thin and charred and this was both. Then the creamy topping, white onions, smoked bacon and mozzarella. It was so good. I think of it often.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Strasbourg, taking in the beauty and delighting in my new favourite word “schnokelock”. When we stumbled upon a Tabac I went it and bought a pack of slim, menthol vogues and a lighter. When in France…

Later on hungry again we headed to a restaurant by the river that we had spotted earlier in the day. It was leafy, shaded and buzzing with people. The menu was very German and I jumped straight in and ordered a ham knuckle. It was huge!! Not a particularly good meal but the view and the atmosphere made up for it. Soon enough it was time to head back. As we strolled for the bus Joe looked at me and said those magic words. “Get the cigs out then”….

So. It was all planned. We were driving to Croatia. Bags were packed (no luggage allowance meant every toiletry in the house came), passports in the glove compartment, ferry information printed. We decided on the ferry as it was cheaper than the tunnel and we thought it would be a more visual way to travel. In all honesty, it wasn’t that exciting, but for the price I’d definitely do it again.

The drive down went smooth and we made it to the ferry port in super fast time. They advise you get there an hour early and as we were even earlier they let us on the earlier ferry. Yay!

Once in Calais we bombed it down the motorway to our first stop, Valenciennes. As we pulled into the little town in Northern France we were giddy with excitement. I was also a little nervous of meeting our first host but I needn’t have been, she was lovely.

Anne-Sophie’s home was beautiful. It was a huge, old house that she had recently bought and was renovating room by room. It was cool, bohemian and relaxed, very much like it’s owner. After showing us around we were shown to our bedroom were Anne-Sophie dropped a bomb. To get to the bathroom we had to go through her bedroom!

My mind went into overdrive as I immediately began to panic. What if I need to pee in the night? What if I tripped over and landed on her head while she slept? I’ll assume these thoughts were written all over my face as she quickly suggested that she could sleep up in the attic. I started to protest (a little half heartedly to tell the truth) but she assured us it wasn’t a problem. It was cool and she liked the space. Phew!

After a quick shower and change we were out! We knew we wouldn’t have a chance to explore Valenciennes. It was basically a stop over en route, but we still wanted to make the most of it. Anne-Sophie had directed us to a local bar about a 10 minute walk away. There wasn’t much to see on the way. Trees, homes, roads, a couple of bridges. Once over the second bridge the scenery changed and we found ourselves in smaller, pedestrian streets. There was a few bars but none seemed welcoming. It felt a little like on An American werewolf were the whole pub just stops and stares at the newcomers.

We kept going wondering if we had come in the right direction and then we turned a corner and there it was. A beautiful little square full of bars and restaurants with fairy lights strewn amongst the trees. They weren’t all open yet as it was still early so we chose an elegant looking Italian restaurant. It had huge windows with wooden sills painted grey, atmospheric lighting and good looking pizzas. We sat outside and watched as a band set up in front of a little church. After we had eaten we moved to the next bar. We ordered a couple of beers (with the help of a Londoner who now lived there) and sat outside at a little table.

As the daylight faded lights began to come on around the square. More and more people arrived, cheese boards were brought out form the little cheese and wine bar, people chatted animatedly and air kisses filled the air. We sat back and beamed at each other as all of our worries started to melt away. This was it, the start of our adventure and what a perfect way to kick it off.

The next morning we rose early still on cloud nine. (The used condom in the bathroom bin quickly brought me back down to earth but I guess that’s the reality of staying in another persons home). Anne-Sophie made us coffee and chatted a little about the area and what she did (sports teacher). We then had a hilarious moment trying to explain that we needed to feed the sourdough starter that we had brought with us.

“You need the oven?” No.

“You need to bake bread?” Erm, no we just need to feed it or it will die.

She gave a little shrug in that cool way that French people just seem to exude and went to get dressed.

Pretty soon we were ready to go but not before having cuddles with the house rabbit, Chou Chou. We said our Au revoirs and Mercis and we were back on the road excitedly anticipating our next stop. Strasbourg.

“The flights to Croatia are so expensive, maybe we should just drive”.

Yeah right. Like we could drive to Croatia. A minute later we were on google maps. Hull to Croatia, 22 hours. 22 hours divided by what, 3 maybe? It was actually starting to sound like a possibility and I was definitely up for it. But how would we book places to stay along the way?

We got home from work and Joe got the map up. We looked at the highlighted route From Hull to Croatia and basically picked out 3 countries on the way there and 3 on the way back. It was that easy! I couldn’t believe it. I’m not sure what I was expecting. Maybe some huge planning session with paper maps and pins and string, etc.

We ended up choosing 2 countries on the way there, France and Austria. For the journey back we chose Slovenia, Germany and Luxembourg. 6 countries in 2 weeks. A night in each. Sorted.

To Airbnb or not to Airbnb?

Air bnb was absolutely the right way for us to do this trip but I get that it’s not for everybody. If you don’t mind being in someone’s home for a night and you’re happy to meet new people then I’d say go for it. It’s cheap, safe and makes exploring a new place in a short space of time easier as the hosts can give you all of the best information on where to visit, eat and avoid. You can also type in specific areas you’d like to be close to and see if there are Air bnbs close by which means less travelling around once you arrive at your destination, which was super important to us because we were driving from early morning and arriving late afternoon so we didn’t want to spend the afternoon driving from place to place.

Also for anyone concerned, you don’t have to sit and chat with anyone if you don’t want to. Everyone we stayed with was respectful of our space and pretty much gave us a key and left us to it which we really appreciated. But if you do want to chat most of them are open to that too. You also have the choice of searching for a private room or an entire home. With the latter you’d get the whole thing to yourselves without the hosts which we’ve done before and it was perfect for us. You’re often left hints and tips about the area, from directions to the nearest pub to maps of hiking trails. Win win.

For me meeting the hosts and spending time in their homes was something I really enjoyed. I will literally walk around the Avenues in Hull trying to look in peoples windows just to get a glimpse of their lives. I find other people’s homes and lifestyles fascinating -Joe calls it nosy but I prefer curious- so I was in my element! And they were all so unique! Each home completely different to the last. Different people from all walks of life all with the same desire to open up their homes to complete strangers. Bonkers but brilliant!

So tell me, has anyone stayed in an Air bnb before? What did you think? Has anyone had a weird experience? Am I the only person obsessed with other people’s lives? Let me know in the comments and thanks for reading this story so far ♥️